Day 27 - Hot Springs, NC

Today is what's called a "near-o," as in, not quite a zero. A zero is when you spend a whole day in town and don't gain any mileage, but I hiked about 3 miles this morning from camp this morning. I'm spending one night at the Laughing Heart Lodge and Hostel to rest my feet, wash my clothes and myself, and resupply. And to eat everything in sight.

Leaving the Smokies felt like a victory, or like a liberation, or something. It was a long, wet, cold week. True, it was beautiful at times, and I saw some lovely flowers and wildlife. One bear, two white-tailed deer, squirrels, songbirds, salamanders and butterflies. I learned to recognize trout lillies and mountain laurel and dwarf crested irises. But when I descended the final slope of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, I was tremendously relieved to be through with the freezing nights and driving rains. I made that descent with Wonderboy, and when we reached the creek at the crossing of interstate I-40, we found a cold can of orange soda, which we shared. Yay trail magic!

North of the Smokies, the mountains are lush and green, pleasantly warm during the day and cool at night. The springs are flowing strong and cold and delicious. There are many lovely waterfalls and moss-covered boulders along the path. It's so pleasant. Especially compared to the Smokies.

I caught up with some excellent buddies who I've kept pace with campsite to campsite, but don't hike with most days. I mostly hike on my own during the day, which I prefer. Two nights ago, I camped just below Max Patch bald with Maps, Lost, Strider, and Wonderboy. It was a clear night, an not too cold. We reached the bald just at sunset and had 360' views of the surrounding mountains. It was one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen, with the pink and gray clouds hanging just above the horizon and the blue-green peaks receding in the distance in all directions. I don't have photos on my phone since the battery was dead, but I caught a few on my real camera that I'll share when I eventually upload them. We watched the sunset, then made camp about half a mile away. When the stars came out, we walked back up a little ways to stargaze, and we saw just one shooting star, but it was a good one.

I made it to Hot Springs this morning in the company of eight other hikers, and lots of us have been pouring into town over the past day. We began this morning with a GIGANTIC breakfast at the only diner in town, then did laundry and food shopping and day-drinking (okay I actually only had gingerbeer - I'm even less of a drinker on the trail than at home). Then back to the hostel for bit, and then.... We went to the actual hot springs in Hot Springs. It was confusing because it was basically a jacuzzi, and there was no indication that the water actually came from a spring anywhere, but it was still fun.

And guess what -- Rambo is in town! I joined him for a beer (actually I had an iced tea) at one of the two bars here, and we caught up on the last few days. And we also shared a pizza. We're going to try to get to Erwin, TN around the same time and go to Trail Days together.

Trail Days is a big hiker festival in Damascus, VA. There's a parade and lots of food and reps from gear companies and contests. I'm not quite sure what to expect, but I definitely don't want to miss it! We'll need to shuttle from Erwin to Damascus by car to make it there, then back track to start hiking again from Erwin after the weekend, but it'll be worth it.

So Erwin is my next port of call, in about five or six days, and after that, Damascus.

In other news, I am in great shape. No major complaints, and only a little itchy.

Photos are of: the A.T. crossing Snowbird Mountain bald; some shots around Hot Springs; me and Rambo in the bar; an the epic pizza we shared for dinner.